I’M a proud resident of Cornwall’s capital: Truro, dubbed by its marketing team as “our great little city”. I find that epithet rather twee, if I’m honest, but I appreciate the sentiment behind it. It’s a positive label for a truly lovely location. What’s not to like about Truro, with its abundance of history and culture, and modern facilities all within easy reach?
Apparently quite a bit, according to Daily Telegraph “destination expert” Chris Moss. He ranked a list of the UK’s 20 smallest cities according to preference, placing Truro in – oh, the shame – last place, with the damning description: “Not a looker.”
He conceded: “Then again, Cornwall is full of picturesque coves and cliffs. This is a pit stop where you can learn about history beyond the Poldark cliches.”
In contrast, another tourist site recommended a whole two days to see Truro. It was a bit much for some (“I’d struggle to spend more than two hours there,” said one charming individual) but I heartily approve.
I frequently despair of those who eschew Truro’s delights in favour of its showier seaside neighbours or fancy attractions. They don’t know what they’re missing. I once met a tour group who had spent a mere 20 minutes – 20 minutes! - at our fabulous neo-Gothic, three-spired cathedral before jumping back on the coach for two hours at Heligan.
As anyone who lives here year-round will tell you, the place empties on beautiful summer days. Even many Truronians head for the coast, but those of us who can’t be doing with traffic jams and car park queues head downtown for a pasty in the knowledge we’ll be welcomed with open arms by bored staff who wish they, too, were outside.
In contrast, when it rains – which is as likely in August as in January – Truro’s streets are rammed with visitors in search of indoor stimulation, be that retail therapy, heritage or entertainment. A quick trip out for a snack suddenly becomes a major obstacle course.
Tempting as it is to say “Nothing to see here” in the hope of discouraging rampant hordes, one has to remember that income is crucial to keeping all that we cherish here; and of course, caring is sharing. So here are a few of my favourite things about Truro.
As a city-centre resident, what I especially love about Truro is that its size makes it manageable. It has everything you could want, all within a tight radius, linked by cobbled streets and opes that once thrummed with sailors in the days when this was still a major inland port and stannary town.
At its heart is that magnificent cathedral, commissioned in 1880 by the ambitious Bishop Edward White Benson a few years before he became Archbishop of Canterbury. It’s bleddy gorgeous, and my photo feed is awash with shots from every angle. Whenever there’s a major parade in town – from Truro City FC’s victory tour to the 40th and biggest ever St Piran’s Day event on March 5 – you can guarantee it will end here, with speeches on the steps and plenty of singing from the crowd in High Cross.
The Hall for Cornwall enjoyed a major refurb during lockdown, and now has greater capacity to welcome big West End shows (like Legally Blonde, which comes in May and stars Strictly competitor Amber Davies); and the Cornwall Museum and Art Gallery has also benefited from a recent facelift, the better to host landmark exhibitions and events from book launches to discos.
You’ll find one of the best retail and hospitality offers in Cornwall here, combining high-street chains with quirky independent outlets for a fantastic shopping and dining-out experience.
And as a parent, Truro feels pretty safe once the kids get old enough to meet up downtown. Home is just a short walk away. Would I have been as happy to let Daughter get a bus into central Plymouth? Not sure.
Should you want to get out and explore the surroundings, get your walking boots on and take the riverside walk down to Malpas and St Clement (wet your whistle at the waterfront Heron Inn), or explore the woodland walks at Idless or Trelissick.
I’m not knocking any of Truro’s competitors, far from it. Hailing from the North East (ish), I have incredibly fond memories of early school trips to historic Lincoln and York; I’ve never been to Canterbury, but it’s on my hitlist for sure.
Actually, I will say one thing: I’m mystified that the Yorkshire city of Ripon managed to beat Truro in the stakes. I stayed there once, and the only thing I remember about it is the cathedral and the wedding I attended at nearby Fountains Abbey. (Game show fans will also know Ripon as a regular “Pointless answer”).
But hey, there’s probably a reporter somewhere up there writing a column similar to mine.





Comments
This article has no comments yet. Be the first to leave a comment.